Roof Inspection Checklist
Run this roof inspection checklist twice a year, in spring and fall, plus after any storm with hail or winds above 50 mph. A professional inspection is priced locally, and drone or infrared surveys cost more than a standard visual one. The homeowner version costs nothing, takes about 45 minutes, and catches most problems from the ground and the attic without anyone climbing on the roof.
You are looking for five things: missing or damaged shingles, failed flashing, blocked or pulling gutters, daylight or stains in the attic, and granules collecting at the downspouts. Four of those five are visible without a ladder.
If the inspection turns up real damage, get the material math before you get quotes. Use our free Roofing Calculator to convert your footprint and pitch into squares of roofing, with the waste allowance shown separately, so any bid you receive can be checked against a real quantity.
Updated September 2026. Roofing labor is priced locally and moves 30 to 50 percent between markets, and it spikes in any region that just took a hailstorm.
A note on numbers. This page gives you the inspection zones, the frequencies, the findings that matter and the line items that belong on a repair bid, not dollar figures. Roofing labor, disposal and inspection fees move by region, by season and by how busy the crews are after a storm, and we do not set any of it. Inspect first, then collect written quotes on one identical scope.
Roof Inspection Checklist: The Five Zones
Work through these in order. Zones 1, 2, and 5 need no ladder at all, and they catch most failures.
Zone 1: from the ground, with binoculars
Walk the full perimeter of the house. Give each elevation a slow look.
| What to check | What a problem looks like | Urgency |
|---|---|---|
| Shingle field | Missing, curled, cupped, cracked, or lifted tabs | High if any are missing |
| Shingle color | Dark patches where granules are gone | Medium |
| Roof line | Sagging, waving, or dipping ridge | High, structural |
| Ridge and hip caps | Missing caps, exposed nails, lifted edges | Medium |
| Valleys | Debris piles, worn or exposed metal | High |
| Eaves and fascia | Peeling paint, soft or dark wood, gaps | Medium |
| Soffit vents | Blocked, painted shut, or missing screens | Medium |
| Gutters | Sagging, separated seams, pulling from fascia | Medium |
| Downspout discharge | Water dumping at the foundation | High |
| Chimney | Cracked crown, missing cap, loose mortar | Medium |
| Vents, stacks, and boots | Cracked rubber boots, tilted vents | High, common leak point |
| Skylights | Fogged glass, cracked flashing, stained interior trim | High |
Cracked plumbing vent boots are worth a special look. The rubber collar around a plumbing stack typically fails at 10 to 15 years, well before the shingles do, and an inexpensive part left alone becomes a ceiling repair. On a roof over 10 years old, assume the boots need attention until you can see otherwise.
Zone 2: the gutters and downspouts
Do this after a rain if you can, because the failures are easier to see wet.
- Are the gutters holding water instead of draining? That is a slope or clog problem.
- Are the seams separated or dripping?
- Do the hangers still hold the gutter tight to the fascia?
- Is there a layer of granules in the gutter trough or at the base of the downspout?
- Does the water leave the foundation, or does it soak into the ground within 3 feet of the wall?
The granule test is the single most useful signal on this list. Asphalt shingles shed a small amount of granule normally, especially when new. A steady, thick accumulation, or granules that fill the bottom of a downspout splash block, means the shingle mat is losing its UV protection and the roof is entering the last part of its life.
Cleaning and re-sloping are homeowner jobs on a single story. The safe method and the pricing are in how to clean gutters, and replacement pricing is in how to install gutters.
Zone 3: the attic, from the inside
This is the zone most homeowners skip, and it is where leaks are found earliest. Go up on a bright day, and take a flashlight anyway.
| What to check | What a problem looks like |
|---|---|
| Sheathing underside | Dark streaks, water stains, soft or spongy wood |
| Nail points | Rust, or frost in winter, which means condensation |
| Daylight | Any pinholes of light through the deck or at penetrations |
| Insulation | Compressed, matted, or discolored patches, which mark old leaks |
| Ridge and soffit vents | Blocked by insulation or debris |
| Rafters and trusses | Cracks, splits, sagging, or altered members |
| Bathroom fan ducts | Venting into the attic instead of outside |
| Chimney chase | Staining down the masonry, gaps at the flashing |
| Smell | Musty odor means moisture is present somewhere |
A bath fan venting into the attic instead of through the roof or soffit is one of the most common defects in existing homes, and it soaks the sheathing every shower. It is a two hour fix and it prevents rot that costs thousands.
Frost on nail tips in winter is condensation, not a leak. The cause is warm humid air leaking into a cold attic, and the fix is air sealing and ventilation, not roofing.
Zone 4: on the roof, only if you belong up there
Do not climb a roof steeper than about 6/12, a wet roof, a frosted roof, a roof over one story, or any roof if you are working alone. Hire the inspection instead. Roofers and inspectors carry harnesses, insurance, and experience reading a surface without damaging it.
If you can safely be up there:
- Press gently on the deck in a few places. Any sponginess means rotted sheathing.
- Check every flashing: step flashing at walls, counterflashing at chimneys, valley metal, drip edge at eaves and rakes.
- Look for exposed or backed-out nails, and for tar smeared over old repairs, which usually marks a chronic leak.
- Check the sealant on ridge cap nails and at vent penetrations.
- Look for blistering, which shows up as small raised bubbles across the field.
- On a low slope or flat section, look for ponding water and open seams.
Walking a roof damages shingles, especially in cold weather when they are brittle and in hot weather when they are soft. Minimize the trips and stay off the ridge caps.
Zone 5: from inside the living space
Faster than it sounds. Walk every room and look up.
- Ceiling stains, especially rings with a brown edge.
- Bubbling or peeling paint on ceilings and upper walls.
- Stains at the top corners of exterior walls, which usually means flashing or gutter overflow.
- Water at the base of a chimney or around skylight trim.
- Any interior door or window that suddenly sticks, which can signal structural movement.
What Roof Inspections Cost
| Inspection type | Relative cost | When it is worth it |
|---|---|---|
| Homeowner walkthrough, this checklist | Free | Twice a year, always |
| Roofing contractor courtesy inspection | Usually free, sometimes a small trip fee | When you suspect damage, expect a sales pitch |
| Independent home inspector, roof only | Cheapest of the paid options | Buying, selling, or a second opinion |
| Certified roof inspector, full report | Roughly double a basic inspection | Insurance disputes, older roofs |
| Drone survey with photo report | Similar to an independent inspection | Steep, tall, tile, or fragile roofs |
| Infrared moisture scan | The most expensive of the six | Flat and low slope roofs, hidden saturation |
What moves an inspection fee is easy to predict once you know the line items behind it. Height and pitch come first, because anything over one story or steeper than 6/12 needs staging and fall protection before anyone gets near the ridge. Material comes second, since tile and slate cannot be walked without breaking them, which is what pushes those roofs toward a drone. After that it is square footage, the number of separate roof planes, whether you are buying a written report with dated photographs or a verbal opinion at the tailgate, travel distance from the inspector's base, and local demand, which spikes for weeks in any market that has just taken hail.
Ask three questions before you book. Does the fee include a written report with photographs, since that is what an insurance adjuster or a buyer's agent will actually want to see. Does the inspector walk the roof or survey it from the ground and the air, because the two methods find different things. And is the fee credited back if you hire the same firm for the repair, which some independents offer and which changes the comparison entirely.
An independent inspection is worth paying for in one situation above all others: when a contractor who wants the replacement job is the only person who has looked at your roof. That is not an accusation, it is a conflict of interest, and an independent opinion is cheap set against the size of a replacement decision.
How Often, and What Triggers an Extra Look
| Situation | Inspection frequency |
|---|---|
| Roof under 10 years old, no trees | Once a year, ground level |
| Roof 10 to 15 years old | Twice a year |
| Roof over 15 years old | Twice a year, plus a pro every 2 to 3 years |
| Heavy tree cover | Twice a year, plus after every windstorm |
| After hail of any size | Within 30 days, professional |
| After winds over 50 mph | Within a week, at least from the ground |
| Before buying a house | Always, professional |
| Before listing a house | Yes, it prevents a surprise at inspection |
| After any interior ceiling stain | Immediately |
Insurance matters here. Most homeowner policies require prompt reporting of storm damage, and many have a one year or two year window for filing a claim after the date of loss. Photograph the damage and the date. A hail claim discovered three years later is usually denied as wear.
Expected Life by Roofing Material
Inspection findings mean different things depending on what is up there. A 22 year old asphalt roof with curling tabs is at end of life. A 22 year old standing seam metal roof with the same wind lift at one edge is a minor repair.
| Material | Typical service life | What fails first |
|---|---|---|
| 3-tab asphalt shingle | 15 to 20 years | Granule loss, tab lift |
| Architectural asphalt shingle | 22 to 30 years | Granule loss, sealant strip |
| Wood shake | 25 to 35 years | Splitting, moss, cupping |
| Standing seam metal | 40 to 70 years | Fastener and sealant at penetrations |
| Exposed fastener metal panel | 25 to 40 years | Screw gaskets, every 10 to 15 years |
| Concrete or clay tile | 50 to 100 years | The underlayment, not the tile |
| Slate | 75 to 150 years | Nails and flashing |
| EPDM or TPO membrane, flat | 20 to 30 years | Seams and edge details |
Tile roofs deserve a note. The tile can outlive the house while the felt underlayment beneath it fails at 20 to 30 years. A tile roof leaking at year 25 usually needs a lift and relay, meaning the tile is removed, new underlayment goes down, and the same tile goes back. That runs roughly half the price of a full replacement.
A Worked Example: Reading a 17 Year Old Asphalt Roof
A 1,900 sq ft single story house, architectural shingles installed 17 years ago, two large oaks over the back slope, one chimney, three plumbing vents, one bath fan vent.
What the inspection found
- Ground view: 6 lifted tabs on the south slope, no missing shingles, ridge line straight.
- Gutters: about 1/4 inch of granules along the back trough, both back downspouts heavy.
- Vent boots: two of three cracked at the collar.
- Chimney: counterflashing pulled loose on the uphill side, mortar crown cracked.
- Attic: one 14 inch dark stain on the sheathing below the chimney, dry to the touch, insulation matted under it.
- Interior: faint ring on the hallway ceiling, no active drip.
What that adds up to
The roof is not failing. One location is leaking, intermittently, and it is the chimney flashing. The dark stain is dry, so the leak is weather-driven rather than constant.
Repair path and scope
- Reseat and seal chimney counterflashing
- Repair chimney crown
- Replace 2 vent boots
- Reseal 6 lifted tabs
- Clean gutters and reseat 4 hangers
That is five line items, and it is exactly the scope to put in front of three roofers so the bids come back comparable. Ask each of them to price the items separately rather than as one lump sum. A lump sum hides which contractor is padding the chimney work, which is the only item on that list with real variation in it, and it makes it impossible to drop a line if the budget gets tight.
The decision
A full replacement on this roof would cost several times that repair list, whatever the local rate happens to be. Buying 4 to 7 more years out of a 17 year old architectural roof for a fraction of the replacement price is a clear win, on one condition: the granule loss is not yet severe. If the back slope were showing bare mat patches, the money would be better held for the replacement, because repairs on a roof at end of life buy months, not years.
That is the entire repair versus replace judgment in one line. Repair a localized failure on a roof with life left. Replace a roof that is failing everywhere at once. How to scope and compare replacement bids by material is covered in roof replacement cost.
Safety, Permits, and When to Call a Pro
Safety first, honestly. Falls from ladders and roofs send tens of thousands of Americans to emergency rooms every year. The ground and attic zones of this checklist deliver most of the value at zero risk. There is no finding on a roof that is worth a fall.
Call a professional when any of these are true:
- The roof is steeper than 6/12, over one story, tile, slate, or metal.
- You found sagging, spongy decking, or any structural concern.
- You are documenting storm damage for an insurance claim.
- The roof is over 15 years old and you are deciding about replacement.
- There is an active leak you cannot trace.
Permits. Small repairs, meaning a few shingles, a vent boot, or a flashing reseat, generally do not need a permit. A tear-off and re-roof requires a permit in most US jurisdictions, along with an inspection of the deck and often ice barrier requirements in cold climates. Many areas also limit a roof to two layers of shingles total, so a second overlay may not be legal where you live. Confirm with your building department before accepting a bid that proposes going over the existing roof.
Pitch changes both what is possible and what a job costs, since steeper roofs need more staging and carry more labor. If you are not sure what yours is, roof pitch explained shows how to measure it in about five minutes.
Fold the twice-yearly roof look into the broader home maintenance checklist so it happens on the same weekend as the gutters and the furnace service.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a professional roof inspection cost?
Inspection fees are set locally and we do not publish them, but the shape of the pricing is consistent everywhere. A basic visual inspection on a single story asphalt roof is the cheapest paid option. A certified inspector producing a full written report with dated photographs is roughly double that, because you are buying the report as much as the look. A drone survey with a photo report lands near a basic independent inspection and is the better choice on steep, tall, tile, or slate roofs. An infrared moisture scan is the most expensive of the lot and is really only worth it on flat and low slope roofs. Call two independents and one drone operator, ask each what the fee includes and whether it is credited against a repair, and you will have your own number in an afternoon. Many roofing contractors also offer a free inspection, which is useful information as long as you remember they are quoting the repair too.
How often should a roof be inspected?
Twice a year for most homes, in spring and fall, plus after any hailstorm or winds over 50 mph. Roofs under 10 years old with no tree cover can go to once a year. Roofs over 15 years old benefit from a professional look every 2 to 3 years on top of your own checks. Any interior ceiling stain moves the inspection to immediately, regardless of schedule.
What are the signs a roof needs to be replaced?
Widespread granule loss with bare black mat showing, curling or cupping across whole slopes, more than a handful of missing shingles, a sagging or wavy roof line, repeated leaks in different locations, and an age at or past the material's service life. One or two of those means repair. Four or more, especially when the roof is already 20 years old, means the money belongs in a replacement rather than in another patch.
Can I inspect my roof myself?
Yes, and most of it should be done from the ground and the attic. Binoculars from the perimeter, a look in the gutters, and 15 minutes in the attic with a flashlight catch the large majority of problems. Climbing onto the roof adds relatively little and carries real fall risk, so skip it on anything steep, tall, wet, frosted, or fragile, and hire an inspection instead.
What does hail damage look like on a roof?
On asphalt shingles, hail leaves round dark bruises where granules were knocked off, roughly the size of the stones, often with a soft spot you can feel. It is randomly scattered rather than patterned. Look at soft metal first, because dents in gutters, downspouts, vent caps, and flashing confirm the hail hit hard enough to matter. Photograph everything with the date, and report it to your insurer promptly, since most policies limit how long after the storm a claim can be filed.
Does homeowners insurance cover roof leaks?
Sudden damage from a covered event, meaning wind, hail, or a falling tree, is generally covered. Leaks from age, wear, poor maintenance, or a failed repair generally are not. Many policies now pay actual cash value on older roofs rather than replacement cost, which means depreciation comes out of the check. Read your declarations page for the roof settlement clause before you need it, not after.
How long does a roof inspection take?
Your own version of this checklist takes 30 to 60 minutes: 15 minutes around the perimeter, 10 in the attic, 10 walking interior ceilings, and the rest on gutters. A professional inspection takes 45 minutes to 2 hours depending on size and complexity, and a written report with photos usually arrives within a day or two.
Related: Roof replacement cost prices the decision this checklist leads to. Roof pitch explained shows how to measure the pitch that drives both safety and cost. How to clean gutters covers the zone that fails first. Home maintenance checklist puts the roof check on a seasonal schedule. The Roofing Calculator turns your footprint and pitch into squares of material so you can check any bid.
