Cost to Paint a House Exterior
The cost to paint a house exterior is decided by three things, and none of them is the paint. How much wall surface you actually have, how high a crew has to reach to get at it, and how much prep the existing coating needs before anything new goes on. Labor is roughly three quarters of a professional exterior bill, and prep is the largest and most variable slice of that labor.
That is why two honest bids on the same house can be thousands apart. They are almost never bidding the same amount of scraping, sanding, caulking and priming. A one story vinyl ranch and a three story cedar Victorian are both "painting a house," and they are not remotely the same job.
Get your exact paint quantity first with our free paint calculator. Knowing that you need 13 gallons rather than "about 10" is the difference between a quote you can check and a quote you have to take on faith.
Updated August 2026
A note on numbers. This page gives you the measuring method, the gallon math, the prep checklist, the access multipliers and the bid questions rather than dollar figures. Exterior painting is labor, labor rates move by metro and by season, and a printed national range would be wrong for most readers. Measure your surface here, then get three written bids on one identical scope.
Why exterior paint is priced off wall surface, not floor area
Here is the most common mistake homeowners make when they price this job.
Your house is "2,000 square feet." That number describes the floor area you live on. Paint never touches your floor area. Paint touches the outside walls, and on a two story home the wall surface is usually larger than the floor area, while on a single story home it is usually smaller.
Contractors bid off wall surface, sometimes called painted surface area. To check a bid, you need the same number they are using.
How to estimate your wall surface area
Do this with a tape measure and ten minutes:
- Measure the perimeter. Walk the outside of the house and add up the length of every wall. A 40 ft by 25 ft rectangle has a perimeter of 130 ft.
- Multiply by wall height. Use the height from the foundation to the eave, not to the roof peak. One story is roughly 9 to 10 ft. Two stories is roughly 18 to 20 ft.
- Subtract doors and windows. Count them and use rough averages: 15 sq ft per window, 21 sq ft per exterior door. Do not subtract anything smaller, and do not subtract at all if you want a safety margin on paint.
- Add gables. A gable is a triangle: width times height, divided by 2. Two gables 25 ft wide and 6 ft tall add 150 sq ft.
- Add dormers, bump outs and the garage if the garage is attached and getting painted.
If your walls are irregular, break the house into rectangles and add them up. Our square footage calculator does the arithmetic for each section, and the paint calculator turns the total into gallons.
Rule of thumb if you cannot measure right now: wall surface is usually 0.8 to 1.2 times the home's floor square footage. Use 1.1 for a two story and 0.85 for a single story ranch.
Cost to paint a house exterior: what a painter is actually pricing
Painters build a number internally from the same short list every time, even when they hand you one lump sum. Here is that list, in the order it moves the total.
| Job condition | What it involves | Relative cost per sq ft of wall |
|---|---|---|
| Simple, one story, siding in good condition | Wash, light scrape, spot prime, two coats | The baseline for the market |
| Average, two story, moderate prep | Wash, scrape, sand, caulk, spot prime, two coats | Meaningfully above the baseline |
| Heavy prep, or three story | Extensive scraping, full prime, ladder or scaffold work | Roughly double the baseline |
| Restoration, failing paint, rot repair | Carpentry, full strip, full prime, two coats | The most expensive, and the widest spread |
| Materials only, doing it yourself | Paint, primer, caulk, sundries | A small fraction of any hired option |
Labor is roughly 70 to 80 percent of a professional exterior painting bill. That single fact drives most of the advice further down this page: the way to change your number is to change the labor, not to shop for cheaper paint.
Exterior painting rates also swing hard by metro. The same house can be bid very differently in a low cost Southern market and in coastal California or the Northeast, and regional labor rates are the reason rather than the product.
How siding material changes the exterior house painting cost
Siding is the biggest variable after size and stories, because it decides both the prep and how much product the wall drinks.
| Siding | Prep needed | Paint absorption | Relative cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | Wash only, usually no priming | Low, smooth surface | Lowest, about 0.85x |
| Aluminum | Wash, scuff chalky oxidation, bonding primer on bare spots | Low | Low, about 0.9x |
| Fiber cement | Wash, caulk joints, prime cut edges | Moderate | Average, 1.0x |
| Stucco | Wash, patch cracks, masonry primer | Very high, about 1.5x the gallons | Above average, about 1.15x |
| Brick | Full clean, masonry primer, permanent decision | High, porous | High, about 1.2x |
| Wood or cedar | Scrape, sand, spot or full prime, replace rot | High, especially bare wood | Highest, about 1.3x to 1.5x |
Wood and cedar are the most expensive to paint because of prep, not paint. Old wood siding sheds its coating, and every square foot of that has to be scraped and sanded by hand before anything new goes on. Bare wood also has to be primed, or the topcoat fails within a couple of years.
Stucco needs little scraping, but it eats paint. The texture has far more real surface than its flat measurement suggests. Plan on roughly 1.5 times the gallons you would use on smooth siding, and use an elastomeric or masonry rated product so it can bridge hairline cracks.
Brick needs a masonry primer and a breathable masonry paint, and it needs an honest warning: painting brick is effectively permanent. Stripping paint off brick is expensive, damaging and often unsuccessful, and painted brick then needs repainting every 7 to 15 years forever. Do it because you want painted brick, not because you are tired of the color this year.
Vinyl is the cheapest to paint, with one hard rule. Use a vinyl safe paint in a color at or lighter than the original's light reflectance value. Dark paint on vinyl absorbs heat, and vinyl warps and buckles when it gets hot. Manufacturers publish vinyl safe color lines for exactly this reason.
Fiber cement takes paint well and holds it a long time. The prep is mostly caulking the butt joints and priming any field cut edges.
Prep is where the money actually goes
If you take one thing from this page, take this: on an older house, prep can cost more than the painting.
Here is what prep means on a real job:
- Pressure washing. Removes chalk, dirt, mildew and loose material. It is either a line item or folded into the bid, and the house then needs 24 to 48 hours to dry.
- Scraping. Hand work over every square foot of failing paint. This is the slow part, and on a house with widespread peeling it alone can be 30 to 50 hours of labor.
- Sanding and feathering. Blends the scraped edges so you cannot see the old paint outline telegraphing through the new coat. Skipping it is the most visible corner a cheap bid cuts.
- Caulking. Every joint, seam, window casing and trim intersection. A house takes 15 to 40 tubes. This is what actually keeps water out of the wall.
- Priming. Every bare spot at minimum, and a full prime on bare or heavily scraped wood.
- Rot repair. Sills, trim boards, corner boards, fascia. Carpentry rates apply, and it is billed per board rather than per square foot.
A repaint on a twelve year old fiber cement house might be one fifth prep and four fifths application. A repaint on a seventy year old wood house with two failing coats can flip that ratio completely.
This is also why two bids on the same house differ so widely. When you compare quotes, compare the prep line first and the total second.
One legal note that carries real cost: if your home was built before 1978, assume lead paint until tested. Contractors disturbing painted surfaces on pre 1978 housing must be certified under the EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule, and lead safe containment adds meaningfully to a bid. That is not a contractor upselling you.
Stories and access: the multiplier nobody quotes out loud
Height is not simply harder. It is slower, it needs equipment, and it carries liability.
- One story: ground ladders, fast setup, one person moves freely. This is the baseline.
- Two stories: extension ladders and ladder jacks, constant repositioning, safety tie offs. Add roughly 20 to 35 percent to the labor.
- Three stories: scaffolding or lifts, rental time and more crew. Add roughly 40 to 70 percent, plus the equipment itself.
Access problems compound all of that. A steep lot, a deck or sunroom in the way, mature landscaping tight against the wall, or a neighbor's fence three feet off your siding each turn a twenty minute wall into a two hour wall. If your house has any of these, point them out during the walkthrough so the bid is real rather than revised mid job.
Paint quality: the wrong place to save money
Labor is 70 to 80 percent of the job, so paint is a small slice of a large number. Trimming the product line to protect the budget saves a sliver and risks the whole coating, and here is the arithmetic behind that.
| Paint tier | Relative price per gallon | Coverage per coat | Typical service life |
|---|---|---|---|
| Contractor grade | Cheapest | 250 to 300 sq ft | 4 to 6 years |
| Mid grade | Moderately higher | 300 to 350 sq ft | 7 to 10 years |
| Premium acrylic | Highest, and the best value per year of service | 350 to 400 sq ft | 12 to 18 years |
Cheap paint has less resin and more filler. It covers less per gallon, so you buy more of it, it often needs a third coat to look even, and it chalks and fades years sooner. A premium product that adds years before the next full repaint pays for itself several times over, because what it is really buying is a delay on the next labor bill.
For exterior work, 100 percent acrylic latex is the default answer on most siding. It stays flexible as the substrate moves with temperature, which is exactly what an oil based film fails to do.
Best time of year to paint an exterior
Weather decides whether the paint film cures properly, and a bad cure fails early no matter what you paid.
- Temperature minimum: most exterior acrylics need 50 degrees F or above, air and surface, and rising. Low temperature formulas go lower, but read the can.
- Temperature maximum: above about 90 degrees F, or in direct hot sun, paint skins over before it can level and bond. Follow the shade around the house.
- Rain: you need a clean window, commonly 24 hours, for a good cure. Check the surface rather than the sky, since siding holds moisture after a morning of dew.
- Humidity: below 70 percent is comfortable. High humidity slows drying and can leave a soft film that marks easily.
Late summer and early fall is the best window in most of the country. Humidity has dropped from July levels, nights are not yet cold, and rain is more predictable than in spring. It is also the last practical window in northern states before overnight lows fall under 50 degrees F. Good crews fill their fall calendar early, so booking is its own kind of savings.
Doing it yourself versus hiring a painter
Painting your own house exterior is genuinely doable. It is also much bigger than people expect.
The honest time estimate: a 2,000 sq ft two story house is typically 80 to 150 hours for one or two people who have not done it before. That is two to four weekends of prep and another two to three weekends of painting, weather permitting. Most homeowner exterior jobs run three to six weeks start to finish.
Equipment you will rent or buy:
- Pressure washer, rented by the day
- Extension ladder, bought or rented
- Ladder jacks and a plank, or pump jacks
- An airless sprayer, which is fast and burns more paint than a roller
- Scaffolding for anything above two stories
The safety line is two stories. Working from an extension ladder with a gallon of paint, a brush and a scraper, twenty feet up, on soft ground, is where the accidents happen. If you have a full second story of gable to reach, or any third story work, hire it out or at minimum rent proper scaffolding. This is the one section of this page where the cheapest option is not the right one.
Hiring makes the most sense when the house is over two stories, when the existing paint is failing widely, when there is rot, or when the house is pre 1978 and lead is likely.
Worked example: a 2,000 sq ft two story house with wood siding
The house: 40 ft by 25 ft footprint, two stories, wood lap siding, 15 windows, 3 exterior doors, two gable ends.
Step 1: wall surface
- Perimeter: (40 + 25) x 2 = 130 ft
- Wall height to eave: 18 ft
- Gross wall area: 130 x 18 = 2,340 sq ft
- Openings: (15 windows x 15) + (3 doors x 21) = 225 + 63 = 288 sq ft
- Net walls: 2,340 - 288 = 2,052 sq ft
- Gables: 2 x (25 x 6 / 2) = 150 sq ft
- Total painted surface: about 2,200 sq ft
Step 2: paint quantity
- Wood siding coverage: 350 sq ft per gallon per coat
- Two coats: 2,200 x 2 = 4,400 sq ft to cover
- 4,400 / 350 = 12.6, round up to 13 gallons of body paint
- Spot primer for scraped areas: 3 gallons
- Trim and door paint: 2 gallons
Step 3: the shopping list, doing it yourself
| Item | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Premium acrylic body paint | 13 gal |
| Exterior primer | 3 gal |
| Trim enamel | 2 gal |
| Exterior caulk | About 25 tubes |
| Sandpaper, scrapers, brushes, rollers, tape, plastic | One full kit |
| Pressure washer, ladder jacks, sprayer | About six rental days |
Step 4: the scope sheet for bidders
| Item | What to write down |
|---|---|
| Measured surface | 2,200 sq ft of painted wall, two gables, 15 windows, 3 doors |
| Prep | Wash, scrape all failing paint, sand and feather, caulk all joints |
| Priming | Spot prime bare wood, full prime any wall scraped past 50 percent |
| Coats | Two finish coats of a named 100 percent acrylic line |
| Trim | Corner boards, fascia, window casings, door casings, included or excluded |
| Rot | Unit price per board for sill, trim and fascia replacement |
| Access | Two story ladder and jack work, note the deck and the tight side yard |
| Lead | House built after 1978, or lead safe practices required |
| Protection | Plants, walks, driveway, windows and the neighbor's property |
| Cleanup | Chip containment, daily cleanup and final wash down |
The comparison to make: one hired bid, minus what your own materials list would cost you, divided by 80 to 150 hours. That gives you an honest hourly rate for your own weekends, calculated from your market rather than a national average. On wood siding at two stories, that number is usually high enough to tempt you and the ladder work is usually the reason people hire it out anyway.
Related calculators and guides
- Paint calculator: gallons needed for any surface, by coats and coverage rate
- Square footage calculator: wall and floor area for irregular shapes
- Cost to paint a house interior: the inside version of this page
- Cost to paint a room: the single room version
- Siding cost: what the alternative to painting involves
- How to quote a painting job: the same math from the contractor's side
Frequently asked questions
What should it cost to paint the outside of a house?
There is no national number worth trusting, because labor is most of the bill and labor is local. What you can control is the comparison: measure your wall surface, write one scope sheet covering prep, priming, coats and trim, and get three bids on that identical page. The spread you see will reflect your market and your house rather than someone else's average.
How long does exterior paint last?
Seven to fifteen years for a quality two coat job, depending on siding and exposure. Fiber cement and well maintained vinyl hold up longest. Wood in full southern or western sun is the shortest, sometimes five to seven years on the sun facing walls while the shaded elevations still look fine.
Is it cheaper to paint or replace siding?
Painting is almost always cheaper up front, usually by a large multiple, since new siding is a materials and labor project of an entirely different size. Replacement wins only when the siding itself is failing, rotten, or so damaged that the prep needed to paint it approaches the work of installing new. Our siding cost page covers how that decision is usually made.
Do I need one coat or two?
Two, in nearly every case. One coat only works when you are repainting the same color over a sound, recent, non chalking finish. Everything else needs two coats for even color and for the film thickness that actually protects the substrate. A bid quoting one coat is not saving you money, it is shortening the repaint cycle.
How much paint do I need for a 2,000 sq ft house?
About 12 to 16 gallons of body paint for two coats over roughly 2,200 sq ft of wall surface, plus 2 to 3 gallons of trim paint and 2 to 4 gallons of primer. Stucco pushes that toward 18 to 22 gallons because of absorption. Run your own measurements through the paint calculator rather than guessing.
Can you paint a house exterior in the fall?
Yes, and in most of the country early fall is the best window of the year. You need daytime highs above 50 degrees F, overnight lows that stay above the paint's minimum, and a dry surface. The limiting factor in northern states is usually the overnight low in October rather than the daytime high.
Why are exterior painting rates so different between quotes?
Almost always because the bids include different amounts of prep. One painter may be quoting a wash and two coats while another is quoting scraping, sanding, full priming and thirty tubes of caulk. Ask each bidder to itemize prep, coat count and the specific product line, then compare those lines rather than the bottom line.
Should I pressure wash before painting myself?
Yes, but at low pressure and with the right tip. High pressure drives water behind siding, gouges wood and strips more than you intended. Use a wide fan tip, keep the wand moving, work top to bottom, and give the house 24 to 48 hours to dry completely before any paint touches it.
